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Page 02 » Painting the PGM Cloud 09

10.09.03 » Paint Time

All the sanding and scratchbuilding is done so it is time to paint! The first color in my plan is the sandy yellow color. I base my color-painting order on what would be easier to mask off later. The yellow goes into a lot of holes that can be masked by Stycky-Tack. The yellow is actually not as saturated as it looks here in the pics. It is duller in real life.

The first picture is all the parts that needed yellow paint. These parts are placed onto bamboo skewers so I don't finger up the paint job..

These are the after shots. The yellow will be masked off and the parts will be painted with their other colors.

 

10.09.03 » Paint Colors

I'll be using many colors to achieve the look I'm going for in the lineart. Here's a breakdown of my pallet so far. All the paints marked with an asterick (*) are custom mixed, the rest are straight from the jar. »

    1. Medium Metal Gray* (internals, weapons, exposed metal)
    2. Bronze* (boosters, cables)
    3. Gunmetal* (boosters, weapons, internals)
    4. White (clouds, armor, highlights)
    5. Light Blue* (cloud base 1)
    6. Light-Med Blue* (cloud base 2)
    7. Red-Orange* (crotch, door plates, boosters)
    8. Yellow-Orange* (crotch emblem)
    9. Sand-Yellow* (minus molds, control boxes, highlights)
    10. Chrome Silver (lenses, minus molds, rivets, buckles)
    11. Clear Red (lenses)
    12. Black (panel lines)
    13. Green-Grey* (cloth parachute "bag" and straps)
    14. Blue-Grey* (Guns)

All those colors plus several will have black mixed with them in small amounts for post shading. In all, I'll have 21 colors.

All of my paints are Tamiya Acrylic. To thin them for airbrush use, I use 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. How much? As much as I need. I never measure my paints and thinner exactly. I just eyeball it. If it's too thin, I'll need to spray more layers. To thick? Add more thinner. Simple as that. I try to thin to the consistency of milk.

10.10.03 » Red-Orange

Tonight I got to paint the red-orange parts. There are only a few parts that will need that color. The door and crotch emblem and the boosters. For the boosters, I first sprayed down a coat of my sand color. Then around the edges (as seen in the pic) I sprayed the red orange for a faded effect. (I remember the days when I used to think booster colors were unnecessary.)

Next up will be the booster external colors.

 

10.10.03 » Painting the Boosters

The booster and gun barrel painting is done. Here is a step-by-step of how I did the boosters.

    1. Painted insides of boosters light yellow
    2. Painted red-orange around edges of boosters
    3. Placed sticky-tack inside of boosters to mask them
    4. Sprayed boosters with a mixture of bronze and copper
    5. Sprayed mixture of Gunmetal and Silver around middles of boosters leaving slight bit of bronze mixture showing.
    6. Sprayed a wash of Alcohol, Tamiya Clear, and Black as a post shade around edges of boosters
    7. Removed sticky-tack

That's about it. I'll ink a few panel lines and the inside tubes for the boosters later when I am at the inking stage.

Here are some images in order of the steps above. »

 

10.11.03 » Whites and Lens

Next up on my paint list was the first of the white parts. I split the whites into two sections depending on what is easy to mask now and what is easy to mask later. For example, the forhead sensor and the knee fronts will be much easier after the blue is painted.

The forst pic is the parts with the sand color masked off either with sticky tack or Tamiya masking tape. The second is the whate painted parts with the masking materials removed.

The next pics show a method for painting GM lenses I am experimenting with. I am painting the inside silver like I normally would, but instead of painting the clear window with clear red, I painted the inside part with the clear red (inked too). I am hoping that this will look good while keeping the clear red from gatting scratched.

Lastly is a shot of all the parts needing my gray color that I'm using for internals. Some of these parts still need masked off such as the fuel tanks and feet boosters.

 

10.12.03 » Internals and External Metal Gray

Mix Tamiya Neutral Gray, White, a touch of Blue and some Metallic Gray and you have the internals color for the Cloud 09. As you can see, I masked off some parts like the stripe around the fuel pods and the minus molds on the back pack.

 

10.13.03 » Cloudy Gun

First off I glued the painted control boxes to their skirt plates and legs. They were easier to paint first and mask later than to glue them first, then mask them.

Secondly... I started the cloud camo!!! Doing the camo/special masking is always my favorite part. Especially when I get to see the results of a first try effort and they look good!

First I painted the metallic gray and then I post-shaded it. The reasom for the speckles on the handle is not due to lumpy paint, but to light hitting the metal speckles. Next I masked off the gray and sprayed down the gray-blue. Then I sprayed my clouds on. I used white + clear + alcohol for the clouds. The clear white made the fadedness of the clouds easier.

There's more detail than shown in this pic, but I need better lighting to show it off. Trust me, it looks great!

10.14.03 » Guns in the Sky

Okay... 20 minutes to spare tonight, so I painted the other guns clouds. Same deal as above. I may go back and paint the round part on the back the same gunmetal as the barrel though. Maybe.

Also, I took a pic of what I use instead of foil stickers for my gun lenses. Basically, it's a part of a package. I think for lightbulbs. You can use action figure plastic or whatever. I sprayed it with chrome silver, then clear red. (or green, yellow, orange, bule, whatever) I cut them to the shape I need and glue them into place. Perfect for the little lens on the back of a Gundam or GM head and the lenses on the guns.

10.17.03 » Calm Before The Storm

Well, I haven't updated in a few days because I really didn't have too much to show. Here's what I have as of today however...

I made the straps for the parachute as well. For the "in flight" straps (seen on the skewers) I used very thin styrene and bended it to look folded with hot water. The straps taped to the screws are for if I have the kit standing up. I wouldn't want the straps blowing out so I used sliced up video tape and painted it the same gray-green color. These straps will flow downward nicely. Gravity-style.

You can also see my work area. Much neater than some of the other work areas I've seen. I never could work in a messy area. You can see the jars and the 2 blues I will be using for the sky-camo. Mmmm... Cherry Coke.

I painted the darker of the blue parts only to find that the blue dried darker than I had anticipated. So I lightened it up and repainted them. Here is a shot of the chest and a part of the backpack with the darker blue. The white was painted first, then masked off before applying the blue.

Next you can see some of the masked lighter blue parts. The crotch-plate shows both the darker and lighter blues. Notice that they are not too drastic as far as dark/light goes. This is what I wanted from the start and you can see that on the lineart.

Also, you can notice the color of the sand-yellow on the foot. Almost the same color as the Tamiya tape. The white circle on the head has since been touched up around the edges.

Finally, here is a shot of all the dark and light blue parts. You can see that this was taken before I got a chance to remove all the masking tape.

Next up will be putting some of the parts together so that I can do the clouds. I don't want to paint each cloud piece separately because it'll look odd/unnatural when put together.

10.18.03 » Cloud City

The clouds are painted and the masking is removed. Next up is a few misc. parts that couldn't be painted until this was done. Maybe 10 parts total. Here's some pics.

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